Update and comments on the DC-DC converter for PLO bricks N1BWT Nov. 1996 All but one of the PLO bricks that I've ever seen used a negative supply voltage, typically -19 or -20 volts. Since most of us prefer to run everything from +12 volts for battery operation, a DC to DC converter is required. While it is possible to build a circuit to do this, and several have been published, DC to DC converter modules frequently appear as surplus. One common variety provides + and - 12 volts out with a nominal 12 volt input, at output currents of 0.5 amps or more. Floating the centertap provides 24 volts, so it is a simple matter of regulating the output voltage down to the required level with a 3-terminal regulator. Additional 3-terminal regulators can provide a negative voltage for GaAsFET bias, and for switching 28 volt coax relays. I connect the relay between a -15 volt output and the +12 volt battery to get roughly 27 volts on the relay. The other problem is eliminating the high-frequency noise generated by switching inside the module, with switching frequencies in the 30 to 100 KHz range. I do this as shown in the schematic, with common-mode filtering on both sides of the module so that noise cannot sneak down the ground path. I've seen as much as 5 volts of switching noise on the +12 volt input side, so filtering both sides is important. The whole circuit, including the 3-terminal regulators, is packaged inside a metal box with RFI filters on all leads. If not filtered, the switching noise will modulate the PLO brick output. One local ham who doesn't believe this has S9 birdies 30 KHz on each side of his 10 GHz signal. I don't know how much of his transmit power is wasted, but I've called him on the birdie frequency on more than one occasion. CAUTION: Some DC-DC converter modules do not have all leads isolated from the case. One model has the output centertap connected to the case, and gets quite hot if the case is in contact with ground, shorting out one side of the output.